So we have ordered our fall bulbs from Scheeper’s. We ordered 90 tulips for planting in containers. Judy has been pining for luxurious hybrid tulips. I stopped planting the hybrids in the flower beds because their size got in the way of caring for the perennials. I’ve switched mostly to species tulips and grape hyacinth in the perennial beds, but suggested we try growing the hybrids in containers.
Judy picked several varieties of hybrid tulip with a red/yellow color scheme.
I’ve never grown tulips in containers before, but I’ve read it can be done. I’ll store the containers in the garage for most of the winter, and I’ll have to throw the tulip bulbs on the compost pile when they are finished blooming.
I also ordered some 200 crocuses. I love crocuses, but I hate how they are vandalized by squirrels. What is most maddening is how the squirrels sometimes just bite off the flowers. This strikes me as pure rodent malice. I’m told that Crocus tommasinanus is less appealing to squirrels, so I got Crocus tommasinianus ‘Lilac Beauty’.
Now that we’re heading into the fall season I’m rethinking my preferred plants for next year’s containers. A few conclusions I’ve drawn:
Big Thumbs Up for Pentas. I was very happy with the Star Flowers (Pentas lanceolata) in my containers for sun. They bloom enthusiastically and can take the heat. Plus, they are great for hummingbirds. In August I regularly came to the front door on my way out and saw hummingbirds on the porch nectaring at the Pentas – they had never appeared on the front porch before this. While the red clusters of small star-shaped flowers are unique when viewed up close, from a distance they look like zonal geranium flowers.
Orange Cosmos v. Orange ‘Profusion’ Zinnias. Earlier this year I was enthusiastic about my orange cosmos (Cosmos sulphureus), which I used as a filler in containers. However, in late summer the cosmos tended to get ragged and bloom sparsely, no matter how conscientiously I deadheaded. I think next year I would use orange ‘Profusion’ Zinnias instead. I used them in one of my sunny beds, and they are more reliable for flowering throughout the growing season. Even when I don’t deadhead them, they bloom, well, profusely.
Cannas are Really a Foliage Plant. This is the first year I had more than one Canna, and I realized that this should really be grown as a foliage plant. I wouldn’t go as far as Garden Walk Garden Talk, who removes the flower buds before they bloom. I like Canna flowers, but they are too few and far between to be the main selling point of this plant. The foliage is really something, though, and in the future I will make interesting foliage my first criteria when picking Canna varieties. I’ve found that they do make good container plants, though I haven’t tried the really gigantic ones.
Prune those Lantanas. My ‘New Gold’ Lantanas did not bloom as freely as I expected this summer. Only after I pruned them back did they start flowering as I had hoped. I conclude that deadheading is not enough, these plants really need to be cut back at least a couple times over the summer.
Bacopa Has Staying Power. I expected the annual lobelia (Lobelia erinus) to sulk during the summer months and then bounce back in fall. However, this summer’s extreme heat just wiped these guys out. In the future, I’ll be inclined to use Bacopa (Supera cordata) as a trailing plant with blue flowers. It’s not as eye-catching as annual lobelia, but it does have staying power.
Not go as in to the compost pile, but rather to another spot in an nearby flower bed.
Some two seasons ago I had to fill a hole in the raised bed along the front walk created by my removal of some diseased purple coneflowers (Echinacea purpurea). I filled it with two Joe Pye Weed (Eupatorium maculatum) ‘Gateway’, basically because I had been lusting after this plant. I already had Sweet Joe Pye Weed (Eupatorium purpureum). I like Sweet Joe Pye, but its flowers are a dusty pale pink and I wanted the richer flower color and deep purple stems of ‘Gateway’.
Thing is, it wasn’t really a very good spot for ‘Gateway‘. Eupatorium maculatum loves moisture, but I planted ‘Gateway’ in a raised bed with soil more well-drained that moist. But I didn’t care, I just wanted this plant. Plus, I figured moisture-loving plants sometimes adapt reasonably well to drier soils. So it was something of an experiment.
The ‘Gateway’ I planted closer to the middle of the bed has done just fine. However, the one planted closer to the west edge of the bed has clearly had moments of stress in this year’s drought, despite my frequent waterings. Leaves drooped regularly and by late August one of this plant’s four stems had completely died back.
So I’m thinking of moving both ‘Gateway’ to the island bed in the center of the front yard, which has fairly moist soil. This bed is mostly full of big plants that like moisture – Sweet Joe Pye Weed, New England Aster (Aster Novae-angliae), Swamp Milkweed (Asclepias incarnata), and Cup Plant (Silphium perfoliatum).
To make room for ‘Gateway’, I would take out some of the New England Aster, whose performance has been somewhat disappointing to me.
And I’ve already ordered the plants to fill the hole created by moving ‘Gateway’: Yellow Coneflower (Ratibida pinnata) and white Carolina Phlox ‘Miss Lingard’ (Phlox maculata).
Only problem is that Judy doesn’t want me to move ‘Gateway’. In the continuum of gardening mentalities from compulsive revisionist to defender of the status quo, I lean more toward revisionism and Judy is the hidebound conservative. She likes the ‘Gateway’ where they are.
There is a compromise position: just move one of the ‘Gateway’ plants. However, that would sacrifice the massing effect you get with two (yes, two are a mass, this is a big plant).
Another thing. If I don’t move ‘Gateway’, I set off a game of musical plants as I try to figure out where to put the Phlox and Yellow Coneflower currently en route. I can usually shoehorn things in if I need to, I suppose.
As usual, I am racked with indecision. So, what do you think? Move one or both ‘Gateway’ plants or leave them where they are?
Shrubz 2 Treez.I may have mentioned this before, but Judy really dislikes shrubs. She’s fine with small trees, but despises shrubiness. Me, I like shrubs. But I was very taken with a photo I found from the website of the Ladybird Johnson Wildflower Center in which Spicebush (Lindera benzoin) had been pruned into small trees. This allows for more vigorous growth by the perennials at the base of the shrubs. The birds had just stripped my Spicebush of berries – within days of their ripening. So I took my trusty Fiskars bypass pruner and went to work. Then I read from Donna at GWGT how you weren’t supposed to do heavy pruning until late fall or winter – earlier pruning encourages tender growth that will be killed by frost. Now I’ll just have to wait and see if my eager improvements will cause any damage. This is my problem as a gardener: I lack patience, when I am seized by an idea I have to act RIGHT NOW.
By the way, Judy’s having camera problems so today’s pictures were taken with her cell phone. Not up to her ordinary standards…
Rose Resurgence. With the cooler weather, my roses have started blooming more enthusiastically, especially the small white single flowers of ‘Cassie’ and the pink buds and cream-colored flowers of ‘Sally Holmes’. ‘Darlow’s Enigma’ has bloomed more modestly, on the other hand I’m growing it on an arbor and it has almost reached the top. I’m a little worried about ‘Westerland’, which is not blooming and seems less than robust.
Grasshoppers.There are grasshoppers hopping about my flower beds. Not many, just one or two at a time that I can see. For some of you that might sound commonplace, but in my inner ring suburban town they are an unusual presence in the garden. My first reaction was one of quiet pride: another sign that I have created a wildlife friendly habitat garden. Then I read that grasshoppers are in fact the same as locusts: we just call them locusts when there are a lot of them. They are hungry herbivores with broad tastes. However, I will not panic. There are plenty of birds in our garden, and perhaps other predators. I’ll assume that the other critters will prevent things from getting seriously out of whack.
Speaking for myself, I’ve always found that having to choose plants for a garden project causes acute agony. The moment I pick one plant, a sneaking suspicion that another option would be far better begins to grow in my mind. I obsessively review the plant descriptions, searching for hidden meanings. Then I decide to switch to another plant, and the process starts all over again.
That’s why I wrote a post about a week ago regarding an oval 4’x6′ raised bed on our parkway that I wanted to make over. The goal was something shorter and tidier-looking. Well, I got quite a bit of useful advice, and thanks to all the input I am now able to make my final choices. Some people suggested specific plants, and others helped me clarify what I wanted from this bed. So here’s the final plan:
Geranium renardii ‘Tschelda’, to spill over the bed’s edge facing the sidewalk. This one I came up with myself, and I decided to stick with it because it is supposed to be shorter (10″), and the foliage should be able to withstand a lot of hot sun through the summer. Jean of Jean’s garden helped me realize it was really Geraniums I wanted here.
Panicum virgatum ‘Shenandoah’, to stand at the west end of the bed as a specimen, providing late season interest. This was a suggestion of Scott at Rhone Street Gardens.
Pennisetum ‘Little Bunny’, along the east end of the bed. I was worried that ‘Hameln’ might grow taller than I want, and this cultivar is supposed to grow only to 12″. Gardensunshine and Plantpostings‘ comments were helpful with this decision.
Calamintha nepetoides in the middle of the bed behind the Geranium ‘Tschelda’. This is a long-blooming mound of tiny white flowers and a favorite of pollinators. Calamintha was suggested by Rachelle from Talking to Plants.
Salvia nemorosa ‘Carradonna’ towards the back of the bed. ‘Carradonna’, also a suggestion of Rachelle, has purple spikes that should provide a nice contrast to the Calamintha.
Sedum spectabile ‘Matrona’ will join ‘Carradonna’ in the back. ‘Matrona’, and suggestion of Scott’s, will provide fall color and a contrast with the orange-yellow of the Rudbeckia fulgidas between the raised bed and the curb. I worried this color combination might be too garish, but I think ‘Matrona’ has such a soft pink I think it will work.
Sidalcea ‘Party Girl’ – just a couple – will stand next to the Panicum at the west end of the bed. A 3′ mini hollyhock that will provide summer color.
I planted Spicebush (Lindera benzoin) four years ago and this is really the first year I’ve gotten berries in any serious quantity. Spicebush berries are a highly valuable fall food for songbirds, particularly those in the thrush family. The berries are also ornamental, and have a citrus fragrance when crushed – as do Spicebush leaves. And the leaves are the larval food of the spicebush swallowtail butterfly – not that I’ve seen any yet. (If any spicebush swallowtail butterflies are reading this, they can take that as a hint.)
Since Spicebush are dioecious, you’ll need male and female plants if you want berries. There’s no way to tell the sex of a Spicebush (this suggests a botanical joke in search of a punchline), so you just have to play the odds and plant several. I have five, which seems to have done the trick, although I wasn’t completely sure until this year.
Spicebush are happiest in part shade and moist soil. I have mine in the backyard in a spot that is usually moist, but they’ve suffered in drought and on very hot days. I’ve given them a fair amount of supplemental water this summer.
In spring Spicebush have small fuzzy yellow flowers that make it look like a very understated forsythia. I thought I had a picture of them blooming in my garden but I couldn’t find it, so here’s one from the Ladybird Johnson Wildflower Center:
Looking at this picture makes me realize I need to pay more attention to pruning and shaping my Spicebush. Notice the graceful habit, almost like a small multi-stem tree? Mine aren’t anything like that, they’re more of a shrubby mess. In any case, this is one very nice shrub, worth considering for any shady garden in the eastern, midwestern, and most of the southern US.
The bees surely do love Anise Hyssop (Agastache foeniculum). They are practically swarming around the spiky blue flowers. Judy took this video with her cell phone the other day. Please forgive the quality, this is a first effort.
The perennial sunflowers (genus Helianthus), that is. Most sunflowers grown in gardens are annuals, and they are beauties in a sunny spot. Perennial sunflowers are wildflowers of the prairies, or cultivars much closer to the wildflower species than their annual cousins.
The rap on perennial sunflowers is that they are far too aggressive for a garden setting. That hasn’t been my experience, but of course behavior varies widely depending on species and conditions. When I lived in Wisconsin I saw some truly out-of-control colonies of Helianthus tuberosus (the source of Jerusalem artichokes, by the way) in a couple of backyards.
I’ve had some very mixed experiences with three perennial sunflower species: Downy Sunflower (Helianthus mollis), Woodland Sunflower (Helianthus strumosus), and Western Sunflower (Helianthus occidentalus). H. mollis and H. occidentalus need sun and well-drained soil, H. strumosus will take some shade and tolerates more clay.
I planted Downy Sunflower three years ago in the raised bed that stretches along the driveway and walk to the front door. That first year it did not do well. There was lots of rain that year, and my H. mollis was shaded by plants that grew tall early in the season. The result was that it grew stems in an odd corkscrew pattern and flowered sparsely. I concluded early that this was a failed experiment and yanked the plants out of the bed (or so I thought).
Next year, no sign that I noticed of Downy Sunflower.
Then this year, I witnessed Downy Sunflower II: The Return of the King. There were two plants that popped up in Spring and then just kept growing straight and strong, one to about 6′ and the other to at least 10′. Yes, I did have to stake them to keep them upright. They are blooming now: 3″ yellow daisies with centers that start dark and gradually turn golden.
Perennial sunflowers are one of those plants that will regrow if even a small piece of root is left in the soil. I think H. mollis has benefited from a drier year and a different mix of plants around it. I like it for the multiple flowers, and for the fuzzy grey-green leaves that look almost like Lambs Ears. Plus, as I’ve written before, I like tall plants, and this one seems to whisper: “Remember the tall-grass prairie.”
I’ll have to watch Downy Sunflower’s future behavior before settling its longer term role in my garden.
I have a very different story with Western Sunflower (H. occidentalus). Western Sunflower is supposed to be the most garden-friendly wild sunflower. It grows only to 3′ or so and is much less aggressive. The foliage is mostly basal, and it flowers at the end of long, almost leafless stems.
My experience was that H. occidentalus is docile to the point of being unable to compete with other perennials. I planted several Western Sunflower, and within about three years they had all disappeared.
Finally, I grow Woodland Sunflower in my lightly shaded backyard. It is a tough and reliable plant, providing color in late summer. I never watered it in this year’s horrendous drought. It’s grown shorter and bloomed less profusely, but otherwise doesn’t seem all that bothered.
I’m sure many would say that there’s no point in bothering with perennial sunflowers, the annuals are more colorful and generally easy to grow. They have a point. But I am one of those people who like some wildness in the garden (within limits – not right next to the sidewalk), who grow native wildflowers because there is very little wild space left for them to thrive in, and because they evoke the long-vanished prairie.
On my parkway there are two raised beds on either side of a young hackberry tree. On the west side of the tree, the raised bed is full of species tulips in early to mid-spring. Later in the summer, it is mostly anise hyssop (Agastache foeniculum) and brown eyed susan (Rudbeckia triloba). Some have suggested this is because I can’t stand to throw volunteers on the compost pile, or because I am cheap. No comment.
These are fine plants, but I have come to feel that they are a little tall (4′ even after they are cut back in spring) and wild for a parkway garden. Given that I have a lot of truly enormous plants toward the back of my front yard, I think it would be better to have lower growing plants in the parkway. This is for my own aesthetic sense as well as to help along the comfort level of the neighbors.
The raised bed is built from pavers and is about 6′ long and 4′ across at its widest point. It gets lots of sun and the soil is loamy but a little on the dry side. To the North of the bed, there is Rudbeckia fulgida, then the curb and street. To the South, there is wild strawberry (Fragaria virginiana – outside the raised beds the parkway is mostly covered with this is a groundcover), then the sidewalk.
I have put together a rough plan – and I’d like to know what you think. I’ve done a graphic but for some reason I can’t upload it into the post. So instead I’ll give a brief description of the bed as I envision it.
Edging the sidewalk side of the bed, spilling over the pavers: Either Geraniumrenadii ‘Tschelda’ or Dianthus ‘Rose Zing’. ‘Tschelda’ is a blue geranium like ‘Johnson’s Blue’, but shorter. I like this possibility because it would echo some Johnson’s Blue on the other side of the sidewalk. On the other hand, I love red, and I don’t have any Dianthus anywhere.
Center/back of the bed:Salvia ‘May Night’ and Downy Phlox (Phlox pilosa). These should provide nice contrasts of color and form. Downy phlox is a prairie wildflower growing to 2′. It’s bright pink flowers and more mounded form should provide a nice contrast to the blue spires of the Salvia. These should provide color in the late spring/early summer. Also, the Salvia will provide repetition for the Salvias along the other side of the sidewalk.
East end of the bed (facing hackberry).Here I’d like to put some Dwarf Fountain Grass (Pennisetum alopecuroides ‘Hameln’) to provide interest through summer and fall. This is a perennial I’ve been wanting to try.
West end of the bed. At the very end, I’m thinking some Prairie Dropseed (Sporobulus heterolopsis). Just inside the Dropseed, I’d plant some false mallow (Sidalcea ‘Party Girl’). The Sidalcea is basically a miniature hollyhock (growing to about 3′) with pink to rose flowers that would provide a focal point in summer. OK, I know I said I didn’t want plants that are too tall, but at least a couple of plants can be moderately tall.
So, what do you think? Do these sound like good choices? Once concern I have is that the color is mostly in spring and early summer. On the other hand, there’s all the Rudbeckiafulgida between the raised bed and the curb, which will provide late season color. Then there’s the Sidalcea and the grasses which provide interest later in the season.
Make free with the advice, criticism, and opinions. Talking over garden plans with equally obsessed gardeners can be as much fun as gardening itself.
So I’ve begun ordering stuff for fall planting, starting out by ordering one plant I MUST have. I know that I MUST HAVE IT, even though I’m not exactly sure where I’ll put it.
The plant in question is Dutchman’s pipe (Aristolochia macrophylla), a native vine with large, heart-shaped leaves. I could tell you that I’ve ordered this plant because the foliage adds an understated elegance to the woodland garden, but that would be a lie. I’ve ordered this plant because I want caterpillars – pipevine swallowtail caterpillars.
One of the instructors for the course in groundcovers and vines I’m taking at Chicago Botanic Garden brought in pictures of pipevine swallowtail caterpillars eating the leaves on HER Dutchman’s pipe. Seeing those caterpillars made me realize I must have this plant.
I do have butterflies, but no caterpillars. And I yearn for caterpillars the way Linus yearned for a visit from the Great Pumpkin. This yearning is mostly unrequited. I have tons of milkweed, four different species, yet I have seen a grand total of two monarch caterpillars over the past nine years. I have planted dill, parsley, and fennel, but have not seen a single black swallowtail caterpillar. Oh, and I’ve got five spicebush, but – you guessed it – no spicebush swallowtail caterpillars.
Why do the caterpillars forsake me? I don’t know. Perhaps I am unworthy. Perhaps they are remembering some caterpillar I squished when I was nine years old.
However, I am not giving up. It could be that pipevine swallowtail caterpillars are my destiny. Once they arrive on my Dutchman’s pipe, it will be like being seen hanging out with the most popular kid in school: all the other caterpillars will start showing up in my garden and inviting me to have lunch at their table in the cafeteria.
Finding a place that could fill an order for Dutchman’s pipe wasn’t that easy. Not many nurseries carry it, and it was out of stock at the first couple of nurseries I found that do sell the vine. Finally I was able to place an order at Shooting Star Nursery in Kentucky. I’ve had good experiences with them in the past.
Now that my Dutchman’s pipe is coming, I have to figure out where to put it. It’s a big vine, so I’m thinking I’ll let it cover the backyard fence on the alley side. The fence is only 5′ high, but 50′ wide. Dutchman’s pipe is a twiner, so I’ll have to maybe put fishing line on the fence with eye hooks. It’ll be in part sun facing the alley, with fairly light shade.
Do you also yearn for caterpillars? Is there a name for that condition? Have you been successful at attracting caterpillars, and if so, what’s your secret?